After much deliberation about what to do during EB's holidays (should EB take spanish classes? should we go to a coffee farm to see the harvesting? or what??) we somehow settled on going to the beach. I'm not entirely sure how this came about except that one day i was desperate to go swimming and as there aren't that many places around here i think i started pushing for the coast.
We were expecting EB to have more time of this year (as in past years) but he is getting so much work lately that he didn't really have a break like usual. The offices closed in Canada but he still had two contracts to work on, and he wasn't sure what to expect for a workload when they did open. So he was hesitent to commit to a series of classes, and didn't want to venture too far away from an internet connection so he could check if work came in.
We remembered my mother's friends in Puerto Escondido and thought that we could go down to see them, and at least know someone who could recomend a hotel, restaurant, activities et cetera. Really then, against my better judgement we went. (i momentarily forgot, in my haste to get swimming, that i don't like beach towns)
Not really knowing the best way to get to the coast, and also running out of time to properly investigate we went with the easiest option which was to cross the street and take one of the buses leaving from calle Armenta y Lopez. These were 88 pesos, we didn't bother with a ticket for LJT. However, early into the ride (that is around the airport) we realized that we were on an adventure. I don't think the bus had any shocks left after 20 or 30 years of driving over the mountains. Nonetheless, the tickets were cheap and there was some space for LJT to move around until he tired out and went to sleep.
It was slow going given the capabilites of the bus, and the fact that we passed through the Ocotlan market on the way south. A number of people got on and off with various packages and sacks of tomatoes, flowers and whatever else. The trip up the mountain was lovely, lots of gorgeous views down into valleys and the fresh air was lovely and cool; although once into the hills the crazy curves around the contours of the mountains were a little frightening.
We stopped once we reached the ridge for a break to buy fruit from the shop and stretch our legs. About 30 minutes later, hurtling along the road we all started feeling queasy, LJT and EB much more than i. Once LJT emptied his stomach a few times and passed out he was fine, but EB spent a good two hours or so with his head between his knees. Something about how fast we were plummeting down the mountain, combined with the curves and the bouncing up and down was not a good combination.
On this side of the sierra are all the coffee farms that grow excellent coffee. We had thought about visiting Pluma Hidalgo to see the harvest, and on the bus we went right through it all (but at a speed to fast to see much). There were lots of banana plants growing to shade the coffee, and plenty of bananas for sale everywhere. i could see the little red berries on the coffee plants, they stood out against the dark shiny green leaves.
Anyway, we got into Pochutla around 7pm (two hours later than we expected to arrive in PUERTO), and once on la Carretera Costeña we all began to feel better. The air was considerably warmer, the soil looked very sandy, and there were signs up everywhere for cold coconuts for sale.
We got into Puerto around 8pm, very tired and hungry from the busride. We were offered a room at the hotel where my mother's friends stay every winter, which was very kind as it saved us a lot of hassle and we could be sure that it was a nice place. I recommend La Casa de Dan y Carmen for anyone staying for a couple weeks or more as the little apartments and cabañas are great with space to relax and one doesn't feel that one is living in a hotel. There is plenty of english spoken as most guests are Canadian or American as is the owner. Plus the pool was fantastic as the heat of Puerto necessitates a lot of time spent in the water. We were right on Playa Zicatela and so we were exposed to the surfers and the many many many Mexicans on vacation for the new year.
Puerto was a little of a shock after so much time in the valley of oaxaca. Certainly, the heat and humidity was different, but as Puerto exists for tourists the informality (people going for dinner in bikinis) and constant partying was a little strange. Our first night, while eating tacos (48$!!!) LJT was freaked out by a few canadian tourists who 1. spoke english 2. were a little drunk and 3. were obnoxious, and refused to answer their questions leaving them to think that we were european and didn't understand english. ha!
Our first day we hiked over to Playa Marinero and set up under hot pink umbrellas. The morning was wonderful, lots of swimming, drinking micheladas and fruit juices and coconut drinks in the sun. We ate ceviche, fish filet, guacamole, totones and french fries all brought out to us on the beach by our waiter. However, returning home we realized that despite the sunscreen and the supposed shade of the umbrellas that EB and I had both gotten sunburns (although LJT out digging in the sand for four hours straight was completely fine).
Ah, well that's what one does at the beach. But we stayed out of the sun for the next few days, hung out by our pool and EB worked a lot. Puerto was a lot more expensive than we had expected. the prices weren't outrageous, but as we couldn't find comedores and had to eat out three meals per day the touristy restaurants were a lot more than we would have spent in oaxaca.
There was some confusion about our room with Dan y Carmen, and so we had to move on after a few nights or go back home. As EB was still working and didnt' want to waste a whole day travelling we opted for a room at Hotel Nayar which was full of Mexicans (mainly chilangos) and very nice. We will go back if we return to Puerto. Here we were closer to the swimming beaches Marinero and Principal and the pedestrian walk (Andoquin) which at night was full of street food vendors, families walking together, clowns, and more typically mexican retaurants.
Coming home we chose to return by suburban, i thought that the newer vehicles might have better shocks and be a little quicker. they leave from Hotel Luz de Angel in the actual town of Puerto (not the beach side of the carretera) about three blocks from the Andoquin. A ticket cost 130$ (in retrospect i should have bought one for LJT as the bus was more than full), our ride was less bumpy (but no fewer curves) and we returned via Sola de Vega. it took 6 hours exactly as opposed to the nearly 10 on the way down. LJT and EB were no less nauseated, but the Dramamine knocked them out and so were able to sleep quite a bit. I definately recommend taking the short bus over the sierra.
And now we are home, with a newly stocked fridge full of food, LJT is estatic to be back with Fernanda and in his own space, I am glad for the fresh air and our own space, and EB has no work as of yet, so maybe we can see some more sights before he gets really busy again.